This week I’ve been asking myself why I’m still here. The personal challenges I’ve had in France for the last seven years are perhaps remediable, and of the past year, most probably; on the level of physical and social viability, one could probably do better than living in an uninsulated 300-year-old stone house in a prehistoric valley — *charming as it may sound and indeed is at times.* But there are factors beyond even my control, the tumbling U.S. economy and spiralling U.S. dollar being at the top of the list. I earn in dollars and spend in Euros. When we switched from the franc to the Euro six years ago, this was not a problem; one Euro cost me just 89 cents. But it’s been falling ever since, and in the last two weeks has lost about 15 cents so that one Euro now costs $1.59. (Somehow it managed to lose 3 over the week-end; that’s what happens when my government decides to work Sunday.)
So why do I stay or, to put it more realistically, will I try to stay? Pourquoi je reste la?
On Monday, the French president, with the former French president at his side, led the nation in remembering ‘le derniere poilu,’ the last surviving French combattant of the Grande Guerre, a.k.a. WWI, or 14-18 as it’s also referred to here. Born on December 7, 1898, Lazar Ponticelli passed last week. He okayed a ceremony only on condition that it pay tribute to all his colleagues, including the hundreds of thousands that would not see 110 years, let alone 25. If the fallen from this war are themselves honored for dying for la France, the war of the trenches (Ponticelli: “They told us to go out of the trenches to fight. We went.”) itself is remembered as a tragedy for all the lives lost. I was struck by the young people interviewed at the ceremony, which took place at les Invalides, who stressed how important it is to remember this legacy and to pass it on to their children and grandchildren, and also two points in President Sarkozy’s speech: How he began by remembering the first two soldiers to fall in the war, stupidly, and how he ended by excoriating the crazed nationalism that can lead to war.
It was a form of nationalism that led my country to illegally invade Iraq five years ago this week, a war that has cost between 80,000 and 1 million Iraqi lives, and 4,000 American. It has also cost at least $600 billion (that’s the official estimate) and, say the Noble Prize-winning economist Joseph Stiglitz and Linda J. Bilmes, will cost $3 trillion by the time the U.S. extricates itself. Bush — who yesterday obscenely called this war ‘noble’ — is not alone in his responsibility for these body and collar counts; he shares it with Democratic chickens like Hilary Clinton who voted to enable him to wage his crusader’s invasion.
This is the same Hilary Clinton who once said ‘it takes a village to raise a child.’ Now that village, my village, is, thanks in part to Clinton, out of money with which to raise its children because it’s all been spent on war.
This week in California, my native state, 14,000 teachers received pink slips or lay-off notices. (En français: Ce sont 14,000 postes d’enseignent qui sont eliminé.)
This week in France, teachers called a one-day strike because the government is planning to eliminate between 8,000 and 11,000 positions — in the whole country.
France has its faults. It’s hella expensive for me right now and I don’t know if I can stick it out — je ne sais pas si je peut tenir le coupe. But I will try do so because even if I have not yet found la femme de ma vie, when I find her, we will be able to raise our children in a country that cares about education and that will not raise them to support an idiotic nationalistic war.